What drives well drilling cost
Well drilling is priced per foot, but your final bill also includes casing, a submersible pump, pressure tank, pitless adapter, wellhead, wiring, testing, and often a filtration system. A typical 200-foot domestic well in the Midwest costs $8,000–$15,000 all-in. The same depth well in Vermont (blasting through granite) can run $18,000–$28,000. In Florida where the aquifer is 60 feet down in sandy limestone, $4,500–$7,500 is normal.
Depth is the variable you can’t predict. Drillers quote per foot ($15–$65/ft depending on formation) and you don’t know how deep you’ll need to go until you’re drilling. A reputable well contractor will quote a not-to-exceed price or walk you through hydrogeologic records from neighboring wells, but the final number only lands after the drill stops.
Cost breakdown
Drilling ($15–$65 per foot)
The headline cost. Sandy and sedimentary formations drill fast at $15–$30/ft. Glacial till and shale run $25–$45/ft. Granite, basalt, and other hard rock push $40–$65/ft. A 300-foot well in hard rock can be $18,000 in drilling alone.
Casing ($10–$25 per foot)
Steel or PVC pipe lining the upper portion of the well to prevent surface contamination. Required by code. Typically runs from surface to 20–40 feet below the water table. Stainless is used in corrosive aquifers at 2–3x cost.
Submersible pump ($700–$2,500)
Sized by depth, flow demand, and pressure. 1/2 HP handles most homes under 200 ft. 1 HP for 200–400 ft. Higher HP for deeper wells or irrigation. Installed with 10–12 gauge pump wire and poly drop pipe.
Pressure tank ($400–$1,200)
Steel or composite bladder tank that maintains household water pressure between pump cycles. 20-gallon for low use, 44-gallon for typical family, 80+ for irrigation or high demand. Oversized tanks reduce pump cycling and extend pump life.
Pitless adapter and wellhead ($250–$600)
Sanitary seal where the water line exits the well casing underground. Required by all state codes.
Electrical ($500–$1,500)
Dedicated 240V circuit, pressure switch, relay box, ground rod. Often subcontracted to a licensed electrician.
Water testing ($150–$600)
Mandatory for new wells. Baseline panel tests coliform, E. coli, pH, hardness, iron, manganese, and nitrate. Expanded panels add arsenic, radon, uranium, VOCs, and pesticides in some regions.
Filtration ($500–$5,000)
Depends on what the test reveals. Sediment filter ($100–$300), iron/manganese filter ($900–$2,500), water softener ($800–$3,500), UV disinfection ($500–$1,200), reverse osmosis drinking system ($400–$900), whole-house carbon ($800–$2,500). Most rural wells need at least sediment and softener.
Regional variation
- Southeast (Florida, Georgia, Carolinas): $4,000–$9,000. Shallow wells, sandy formations.
- Midwest (Indiana, Ohio, Iowa): $6,000–$14,000. Mid-depth, glacial till, reasonable water quality.
- Texas, Oklahoma: $8,000–$18,000. Variable depth, significant iron and hardness.
- Mountain West (Colorado, Idaho, Montana): $10,000–$22,000. Deeper wells, hard rock.
- Northeast (Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine): $15,000–$30,000. Granite bedrock, 300–600 ft typical.
- Pacific Northwest: $9,000–$20,000. Variable by county.
- California: $12,000–$35,000. Permits, groundwater regulations, deep aquifers.
Permits and water rights
Every state requires a well permit ($150–$800). Western states (California, Colorado, Arizona, Nevada) also require water rights registration — and in some counties, new domestic wells are capped at a flow limit or outright prohibited. Check your state’s Department of Water Resources before buying rural land with the expectation of drilling.
DIY vs pro
Drilling is not DIY at any residential depth. Rigs cost $200,000+ and require licensed operators. Homeowner-drilled “sand point” shallow wells are possible in very specific geologies (high water table, sandy soil) but typically deliver only 3–5 gpm and can’t support a modern household. The pump and pressure tank installation is DIY-friendly for experienced homeowners — expect to save $800–$1,500.
Common mistakes
- Not reviewing neighboring well logs. State databases show depth, flow, and water quality of nearby wells — huge predictive value.
- Skipping the water test. Arsenic, radon, and uranium are common in many US regions and can’t be tasted.
- Undersizing the pump. A 1/2 HP pump running 300 feet down will burn out; size for depth, not just demand.
- No sediment pre-filter. Fine sand and silt destroys household fixtures within 12–24 months.
- Skipping the pressure tank. The pump cycles constantly without one and fails within 3–5 years.
When to call a pro
Always. Start by pulling state well logs for your parcel and neighbors. Get three bids with a not-to-exceed depth quote. Ask about guarantees — a reputable driller warranties water quantity (typically 3–5 gpm minimum) for at least a year. Poor water quality is separate from quantity and usually the homeowner’s problem to solve with filtration.